Laureth-4 & Laureth-23: Multipurpose Ingredients for Cosmetics & Personal Care Products
Laureth-4 and Laureth-23 are polyoxyethers of lauryl alcohol that are used in cosmetics and personal care products. Lauryl alcohol is derived from lauric acid through a process known as ethoxylation, whereby ethylene oxide is added to a substrate. Lauric acid is a saturated fatty acid with a 12-carbon chain that is found in palm kernel oil or coconut oil. The number associated with the laureth product (i.e. Laureth-4 or Laureth-23) indicates the average number of repeating ethylene oxide units in the molecule. Laureth-4 and Laureth-23 are both clear, colorless liquids, but as the numerical value of laureth ingredients increases, the viscosity increases until they eventually become white, waxy solids.
Both Laureth-4 and Laureth-23 function as surfactants. Surfactants lower the surface tension between two substances, such as two liquids or liquid and solid. A surfactant molecule contains one end that is hydrophilic (attracted to water) and one end that is lipophilic (attracted to oil), allowing it to attract and suspend dirt, oils, and other impurities. Laureth-4 is found in products such as bath, hair, cleansing, and sunscreen as well as deodorants and moisturizers, where it functions as a surfactant – emulsifying agent. Laureth-23 is used in many different cleansers and body washes, where it functions as a surfactant – cleansing agent and a surfactant – solubilizing agent.
Emulsification is another function performed by Laureth-4 and Laureth-23. Emulsifiers are required for formulations containing both water and oil components to prevent the two phases from separating if the product is left to settle. Emulsifiers like Laureth-4 and Laureth-23 will help oil droplets remain dispersed, improving consistency and enabling an even distribution of topical skin care benefits. Laureth-4 is an emulsifier with a Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) value of 9.7. An HLB of less than 10 indicates that the substance is soluble in oil. Low HLB emulsifiers such as Laureth-4 give rise to water-in-oil emulsions. Laureth-23 has an HLB value of 16.9. An HLB greater than 10 indicates that the substance is soluble in water, and high HLB emulsifiers such as Laureth-23 give rise to oil-in-water emulsions.
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